Mortlach 21 Year Old 1989 SMWS Single 1st Fill Sherry Cask 76.84 Feisty & Zesty Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky (2011) 75cl
1 of 555 bottles produced
This was only released in USA so a little more whisky at 75cl instead of 70cl.
It is such a delight to see some of the really early editions of the SMWS single cask bottlings. Even better to drink them!
Whisky Apostle Review & Tasting Notes
What the SMWSA Says:
Someone reported a hint of paint at the start, but we mainly identified dried fruit (dates, figs, pineapple, papaya, Christmas cake). We also found orange zest, spearmint, black currant and liquorice. The palate had a nice chewy texture and feisty assertiveness, with flavours of leather, pepper, tobacco, Madeira wine and spicy marmalade on burnt toast. The reduced nose offered prunes, Jaffa cakes and lemon and lime jelly, with slightly burnt fruit-cake. Candied orange, dark chocolate and glazed ham graced the reduced palate, making it mouth-watering, but with a dry finish. King Malcolm defeated the Danes at a spot near this distillery.
Drinking tip: With coffee.
What Richard Says:
Nose: Lovely, lovely nose. Ripe berries, treacle tarts, and spearmint. Water opens up a nose reminding me of orange glazed roasted meat. Mouth watering.
Palate: Delicious sherry sweetness. Black pepper, aged leather, and a fine cigar. It’s like a whole evening out at an exclusive men’s club all rolled into one dram.
Finish: Fresh cracked pepper, polished oak, and sherry on the finish. Surprisingly smooth at barrel proof. WHile water makes for additional depth on the nose and the palate it makes the finish a little too dry.
Comments: An all around lovely dram. For those with the means and access I couldn’t recommend this enough. Mortlach makes some seriously good whisky. It’s a shame Diageo doesn’t bottle more of it.
Rating: Must Buy
Whisky Monster commentary
SMWS 76.84 is a 1st fill Sherry Butt matured, 21 year old Mortlach single malt!!
Like all other whiskies from Scotch Malt Whisky Society, this particular bottle has an interesting name, Feisty and Zesty, which gives us some hints of citrus already.
A wonderful SMWS whisky, worth every moment of 21 years. Very mature, charismatic and strong. Sherry casks gives dark fruity influence with earthy and spicy character.
This whisky has a vibe and it is revitalizing! I am happy that it was money well spent! SMWS 76.84 made me remember why I am a member of this society.
About Mortlach
Mortlach’s main claim to fame, production wise, is as the home of the most fiendishly complex distillation regime in Scotland.
The wash (from clear wort and long fermentation) is split between three wash stills; No. 3 wash still and No.3 spirit still work in tandem and as per normal.
The low wines from wash stills No. 1 and 2 is, however, split into two parts. The first 80% of the run is collected as the charge for spirit still No. 2. The remaining 20% (called weak feints) forms the charge for spirit still No.1 otherwise known as ‘The Wee Witchie’. This distils the weak feints three times with only the heart of the final run being collected. It all adds up to the new make spirit having been distilled 2.81 times.
In addition to this, all the stills are run relatively speedily with no air rests to rejuvenate the copper and all lyne arms running into cold worm tubs. The result of this complex regime in a copper-starved environment is a building up of sulphur and ‘meatiness’ in the new make spirit, with the ‘dud runs’ on the Wee Witchie providing an extra meaty boost. Although it is aged in a mix of casks, Mortlach’s weight makes it an ideal partner with ex-Sherry casks.
While other meaty spirits are made [most notably Benrinnes and Dailuaine] none have Mortlach’s weight, meaning that this is a highly-prized base note for blends. As a result, there has been little stock available for single malt bottlings bar the occasional independent bottlings (most notably with Gordon & MacPhail) and small batches of a 16-year-old in Diageo’s Flora & Fauna range. Mortlach seemed destined to remain a cult malt.
In 2014, however, that changed with the launch of a four-strong range: Rare Old, Special Strength, (both no-age-statement), 18-year-old, and 25-year-old.
Mortlach was the name of the original village which sprang up around the abbey of the name, founded by Saint Moluag in the 7th century. With the building of Dufftown in 1817 the old name fell in abeyance – apart from the distillery.
The distillery was the first to be licensed within Dufftown, being founded by James Findlater, Donald Mackintosh and Alex Gordon in 1823. It passed briefly into the hands of the Grant brothers of Glen Grant fame who gutted the buildings and used the equipment for their distillery in Rothes.
It was George Cowie and his son Alexander who, from the 1850s on, recommenced whisky production and steered Mortlach to a pre-eminent position as a blending malt.
Although no-one is sure where the unique distillation regime originated, its adherence to richness and weight singles Mortlach out as one of the distilleries with a robust belief in the older ways of making whisky.
It remained in the Cowie’s hands until 1923 when it became part of John Walker & Sons and from there via DCL into Diageo.
In 2014, it was announced that a mirror image of the existing distillery would be built which, when completed, will double total capacity.
About SMWS
The Scotch Malt Whisky Society (SMWS) was founded in 1983 by a group of friends lead by tax accountant Phillip ‘Pip’ Hills as a private members club. The concept behind the society was to source casks from all over Scotland which would then be bottled and made available exclusively to its members. Perhaps the most famous feature of these bottles are the unique codes. Each distillery is represented by a different number and the following digits indicate that particular release. That same year, the SMWS set up its first location in Leith’s Vault buildings in Edinburgh where it still stands today.
57.8% ABV
75cl
