As we unveiled a bespoke pair of leather brogues, our noses were tickled by pollen, heather blossom and lovage. The palate was Caribbean rum punch, with a fulsome serving of mace, honey and green apple from a leather satchel. Water elevated the honey, and added dragon fruit and pear, while layering wax crayons and fir sap on the nose. The palate too was honey-forward, with a lingering mace to follow and tutti frutti ice cream toped with mint leaves. After 11 years in an ex-bourbon hogshead, we transferred this to a medium-well toasted second fill American oak hogshead for the remainder of its maturation.
Starting life as a small site with two stills, the number has since doubled. Its style also appears to have shifted on at least two occasions from the overtly fruity manifestations of its earliest guise to a more cereal-accented make in recent years. A peated variant, bottled as Old Ballantruan, is also now part of the portfolio. Its growing presence in the malt category will hopefully convince more people of its undoubted quality.
The distillery was built in 1965 by a pair of whisky-broking firms, Hay & MacLeod and W. & S. Strong, before being folded into the Whyte & Mackay stable in 1973. It remained part of the blending firm until 2000 when it was purchased by Angus Dundee where it performs dual functions as provider of mature spirit for contract blends and under its own guise.