Glen Elgin 17 Year Old 2006 Single Refill Hogshead Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky (2023) 70cl

Fruitiness is the key to Glen Elgin’s character – a lush fruitiness at that – which is achieved through clear wort, long fermentation and slow distillation in its six stills to clean out sulphur, but then condensing takes place in worm tubs which adds weight and complexity. Complicated stuff.

Little surprise perhaps that Glen Elgin has been a major contributor to blends, White Horse in particular (there was a legendary 12-year-old exclusive for Japan which heavily promoted the White Horse link on the label). It was a member of Diageo’s ‘Hidden Malts’ range which appeared, briefly, at the start of the Millennium before being dropped in favour of the higher-volume Singleton family. As a result, it remains a minor cult among malt aficionados and is revered by blenders.

Located in the strangely-named hamlet of Fogwatt, Glen Elgin’s early years were somewhat precarious. It started production in 1900 just as whisky was entering one of its periodic slumps and promptly was mothballed twice before being sold in 1906. It joined DCL in 1929 and was licensed to White Horse Distillers. Electricity only arrived at the distillery in 1950. Up until then it was operated by paraffin.